esmaspäev, august 04, 2008

Norra reis: Karasjok. Trip to Norway: Karasjok (the first stop)

Jättes täielikult vahele selle reisi osa, mis puudutab Soomet (mõningaid killukesi ja vihjeid leiate muu jutu vahelt), lähen edasi meie esimese peatuse juurde Norras - Karasjokis. Samal päeval, kui sinna jõudsime, olime käinud ära ka Rovaniemis, mis on nagu Disneyland päkapikkude ja paksu mehega. Neoontulede vilkudes määritakse sulle pähe roppkallist digiklõpsu Joulupukkist, igasugu pseudosaami vidinaid ja muud kraami.
Skipping the part of the trip that went through Finland (you can find bits and scraps integrated into the other chapters), I will go to our first stop in Norway, Karasjok. One the same day that we reached Karasjok, we had driven through Rovaniemi which is basically a northern disneyland with elfs and a fat guy in a chair. The neon lights are flashing and telling you to buy EVERYTHING from a goddamn expensive digital shot of the Santa to the simplified sami trinkets....
Kui Rovaniemi on soome saamide pealinn siis Karasjok olevat jällegi Norra saamide oma, kuigi hilisõhtul on linn niivõrd inimtühi, et ei näe me tavalisi norrakaidki, saamidest rääkimata. Kelle kuradi pealinn ta siis on...If Rovaniemi is the capital of the finnish sami, then Karasjok is supposed to be the capital of the norwegian sami. Although we dont see even the regular norwegians anywhere in the city late at night. Thats quite common for norwegian cities to look that abandoned - they are all sitting at home or spending time in the mountain huts far away somewhere.

Kuid pealinnale kohaselt leiab siit täitsa korraliku parlamendi...õigemini, siit leiab parlamendihoone, aga parlament on tont teab kus ja käib kuulu järgi koos ainult mulje tekitamiseks saamide aktiivsest poliitilisest elust. Saadikud saavad muidugi roppu raha, aga mingit põhjapanevat mõjujõudu sel parlamendil ei pidavat olema - see neid lihtsalt ei huvita.
As fit for a capital, you can find a parliament here in Karasjok...well, ok, you can find the parliament BUILDING here in Karasjok, but the parliament itself is god knows where doing not much anything, coming together apparently just to pose to the cameras and collect their father heavy paycheck. The real political influence isn´t even something they seek for, and it is more easily achived through other measures.


Hoone ise on muidugi päris vahva, ja hea, et me seda ise juba õhtul vaatama tulime, sest meie grupijuhti kuulates ("homme päike paistab, saate ilusaid kaadreid!") poleks ilmselt ühtegi pilti teinud, ja järgmisel päeval veetsime maja juures mitte enam kui 20 sekundit ainult selleks et jõllitada üha tumenevasse taevasse...
The building itself looks rather cool, although silent, and it is a good thing we came to see it by ourselves already in the evening, cause had we listened to our guide ("you can get good shots tomorrow when the sun comes up!") we would have not taken a single photo, cause the next day we spent exactly about 20 seconds in front of the house staring at the sky clouding up and getting darker and darker with not a single ray of sun coming through.


Need siin on majakesed Karasjoki kämpingust. Enamik kämpinguid Norras kujutabki endast nende tüüpiliste mägionnide (hytte´de) kogumikku, milles narid, laud ja paar tooli ning hea õnne korral elektripliit. Karasjokis sattusime meie nende õnnelike hulka, kelle majake oli suurem, jättes ruumi omaenda tulaeti ja elutoa ning kööginurga jaoks, teised paigutati pisematesse putkadesse, kust tuli läbi märja rohu stagneerunud kööki ja pesuruumi koperdada. Sellegipoolest ei või keegi kurta, sest putkade kveekerlikkust korvas vaade jõele ja linnale ning lihtne ligipääs vaatamisväärsustele (parlamendile ja vabaõhumuuseumile), ja samuti kena metsaalune, kus oma pead tuulutamas käia. Looduskaunidusest ei jäänud ka üheski järgmises kämpingus puudu, ning oldud sai palju kitsamates hüttides kui meie Karasjoki peavari.
These are the huts from karasjok camp site. Mot campings in Norway are a collection of their typical mountain huts, containing beds, a table and chairs, and only if you get lucky, a little electric stove and /or a sink. We were the lucky ones who got a rather big house for 6 people with a toilet inside, a kitchen corner and a living room, while others had to settle for the cramped little huts. The camping had a good access to the "main attractions" though (parliament and the open air museum), and a nice little forest around it. The natural beauty of any camping we stayed in can stand any criticism, and we spent nights in lot less spacious huts than the one in Karasjok.



Jõgi
The Karasjoki river

Vabaõhumuuseumi sissepääs
The entrance to the open air museum

Karasjoki kirik
The church of Karasjok
Karasjoki vana, 1807. aasta puukirik, on vanim kirik Finnmarki platool ja ainus ehitis linnas, mis elas üle Teise Maailmasõja kahjustused sakslaste pommirünnakust. oma ehituselt meenutas ta mulle pisut Muhu kirikut, mida oleks justkui kahele poole peegeldatud, ainult üks on muidugi kivist ja teine puust....
The old wooden church in Karasjok, buildt in 1807, was the only building that survived german bombings that destroyed practically the whole city during WW II, and the oldest lutherian church on the Finnmark county. It sort of reminded me of the medieval Muhu church
Enamik kriikuid Norras ongi puukirikud ja seejuures väga ilusad ning hästi hoolitsetud, mis pole ka ime, sest 86 % norrakatest kuuluvad kirikusse.
Most churches in Norway seem to be wooden and they are all pretty and well taken care of, which is no wonder with 86 % of the population being a member of the state church.


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